- Do heat pumps really work when it's below zero?
- Yes — modern cold-climate models are the proof, with over 200,000 units running in Maine, the coldest state in the lower 48 to adopt them at scale. Ultra-high-efficiency units operate down to −22°F, and "hyper-heating" designs hold 100% of rated output at +5°F. Output does decline with temperature (roughly 60–80% of rated at the extreme limit), which is exactly why proper sizing at your local design temperature matters. See cold-climate performance for the curves.
- Will it be cheaper than my oil boiler?
- Usually modestly cheaper at current prices (~15–25% per delivered BTU) and dramatically cheaper than propane (~40–45%) or electric baseboard (~65–70%). Oil savings swell whenever crude spikes, and shrink when oil is cheap — a heat pump is partly a price-stability hedge. Full math on the savings page.
- What's this "30" number I keep seeing in heat pump ads?
- That's SEER2, the cooling-efficiency rating — the best units exceed 30, which is outstanding. The heating rating is HSPF2, where today's ceiling is roughly 11–12 (about 300%+ seasonal efficiency). If an ad implies an HSPF of 30, someone has confused their acronyms.
- Do I need to keep my boiler or furnace?
- You don't have to, but many Mainers do for the first few years. A partial installation lets heat pumps carry 90–95% of heating hours cheaply while the old system covers extreme cold snaps and outages of the heat pump itself. Whole-home conversions are fully supported (and earn the biggest rebates) when sized for 100% of peak load — just plan for pipe-freeze protection and, ideally, an outage backup like a wood stove or generator, the same as with any electric-dependent heating system. Note your boiler needs electricity too.
- How long do they last?
- Expect roughly 15 years, with 10–20 the realistic range depending on climate exposure, maintenance, and duty cycle. Manufacturer parts/compressor warranties commonly run 10–12 years when installed by an accredited contractor and registered.
- Are they noisy?
- Indoor heads run 19–30 dB on low — quieter than a whisper. Outdoor units run roughly 50–58 dB at the cabinet, comparable to a modern refrigerator's hum from a few feet away, and much quieter than older central AC condensers. Placement away from bedroom windows and property lines is still smart practice.
- What maintenance is required?
- Homeowner: rinse the washable indoor filters monthly in heavy-use seasons, keep the outdoor unit clear of snow, leaves, and grass clippings. Professional: an annual or biennial coil/blower cleaning and system check — roughly equivalent in cost to the boiler cleaning it replaces.
- What does electricity for a heat pump add to my bill?
- Heating a typical home entirely by heat pump uses roughly 5,000–9,000 kWh per winter (load- and weather-dependent) — a visible increase on the electric bill that is more than offset by the oil, propane, or resistance-heat spending it eliminates. Judge the project on total annual energy cost, not the electric bill alone.
- Can I install it myself?
- No — both practically and financially. Refrigerant handling requires EPA certification, charge and vacuum quality determine real-world efficiency, and DIY or non-registered installations forfeit Efficiency Maine rebates worth $1,000–$9,000 and usually void the long equipment warranty. The rebate typically exceeds what DIY would save.
- Heat pump vs. pellet stove vs. new boiler — which should I pick?
- They solve different problems. A heat pump is the only option that also delivers air conditioning, dehumidification, and per-room zoning, and it's the cheapest to run of the three against propane/baseboard. Wood and pellets remain excellent outage-proof companions to a heat pump. Replacing a dead boiler in-kind locks in another 25 years of fuel-price exposure with no rebate help — run the numbers before defaulting to it.
- Does a heat pump add home value?
- Appraisal evidence is still maturing, but heat pumps are now more common than oil heat in new Maine construction, buyers increasingly ask for them, and a documented low heating cost is a genuine selling point in a state where buyers know exactly what a February oil bill feels like.
- Where do I start?
- 1) Read the savings math against your current fuel. 2) Consider weatherization first (rebates up to $8,000). 3) Check your rebate tier. 4) Get quotes from two or three Efficiency Maine Registered Vendors using the installation guide checklist. If you're doing whole-home, get the claim in before December 31, 2026 for the $500 bonus.